4,000 French Presidential and Royal Menus at Auction in Paris: A Dive into Diplomatic and Gastronomic History

Mise à jour 3 juin 2024 par Redak

A Love for Cheese That Almost Triggered a Diplomatic Crisis

The exhibition and auction of 4,000 French presidential and royal menus offer a fascinating dive into diplomatic and gastronomic history. Among the anecdotes revealed, one particularly stands out: Barack Obama’s love for cheese would have almost caused a diplomatic incident with Russia. During the commemorations of the 70th anniversary of the Allied landings in Normandy in 2014, a dinner hosted by French President François Hollande at Guy Savoy’s Michelin-starred restaurant was marked by an unexpected request from the former American president.

After tasting a blue lobster salad and one line-caught sea bass in grilled scales, Barack Obama requested a plate of cheese before dessert, thus delaying the dinner plan. This could have been a problem because François Hollande then had to return to the Élysée for a second meal with Russian President Vladimir Putin. This anecdote, told by Pierre Marquis, expert at the Poulain firm, illustrates the importance of details during state dinners.

Grandiose Meals Throughout History

The collection, belonging to French chef Christophe Marguin, is presented as a “world premiere” by the Millon auction house. She covers 150 years of diplomatic and gastronomic history and includes state dinner menus from Napoleon III to Elizabeth II to Vladimir Putin.

The Meal of the 23,000 Mayors

Among the most spectacular menus is that of a meal served at 23,000 mayors in the Tuileries gardens during the Universal Exhibition of 1900. This colossal event required:

• 7 kilometers of tablecloth
• 125,000 plates
• 600 cooks and clerks
• 2,200 servers
• 2 tons of salmon
• 1,200 liters of mayonnaise
• 39,000 bottles of wine

Diplomatic Menus: Subliminal Messages

These menus are not simple lists of dishes; they are often printed on silk or precious papers, illuminated and decorated by famous artists. For example, the menu created for American President Jimmy Carter is decorated with a lithograph by Marc Chagall.

Over the years, menus have evolved to reflect international relationships. In 1897, to strengthen its ties with Russia and Great Britain, France included in a dinner offered in honor of Tsar Nicholas II of Muscovite-style Volga sturgeon and of Victoria-style pineapple, in homage to the Queen of England at the time.

Culinary Diplomacy

The choice of menus at state dinners is highly strategic. Indeed, the French president often has the last word, but this is the subject of in-depth discussions to avoid any diplomatic blunders. During one of Queen Elizabeth II’s visits, for example, a menu “with or without foie gras” was offered for fear of offending her son Charles, a defender of animal welfare. But it was the queen, a great fan of foie gras, who had the last word.

Auction: A Unique Opportunity

These menus, estimated at between 10 and 1,500 euros each, will be auctioned on Friday in Paris. They offer a unique look at the evolution of international relationships and the gastronomic practices over time. For history and food lovers, this sale represents a rare opportunity to own a piece of world history.

To view the catalog, click here

Cyril CH

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